The Chile-Argentina border cuts through the majestic Andes, dividing pristine lakes and attempting to separate a unique natural system. This border, however, adds an intriguing layer to the journey in this region. My goal was simple: to travel from Puerto Montt/Puerto Varas in Chile to the stunning Bariloche. While the road trip option promised views of the Osorno Volcano and Cerro Tronador, I opted for the second choice—an adventure with “Cruce Andino” (Andean Crossing), a company that has been paving the way since 1913. It’s a long day (12 hours) and quite costly (€295 vs. approximately €56 for a bus ride). Yet, it’s one of those journeys that must be experienced in a lifetime to gain a deeper understanding of our surroundings.
The Andean Odyssey Begins: The journey kicks off at 8 a.m. at TurisTour’s office in Puerto Varas, where luggage (one piece per person, with additional bags at $25 each) is checked in. From there, we set out on a bus to our first stop—the Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park. Established in 1926, it’s the oldest national park in Chile and was declared a protected area in 1926. Covering an area of 253,000 hectares, it’s part of the UNESCO-declared Temperate Rainforests of the Southern Andes Biosphere Reserve since 2007, recognized earlier by the World Wildlife Fund in 1998 as a key point in forest conservation.
Exploring Petrohué Falls: An hour later, we arrive at Petrohué Falls, where the entrance fee for foreigners is around 7,000 Chilean pesos. The site offers several viewpoints with the Osorno Volcano in the backdrop. Various trails lead to other hidden gems like “Mirror Lake.” It’s all incredibly beautiful.
Cruising Lake Todos Los Santos: We continue by bus to Petrohué’s port, where we board our first catamaran. This leg takes us across Lake Todos Los Santos for about 2 hours. This glacier-fed lake spans 178 kilometers and reaches depths of 337 meters.
The great news is that YOU CAN STEP OUTSIDE ON THE CATAMARAN to peacefully take in the postcard-worthy landscapes. It’s like living in a dream. The scenery is so breathtaking that it overwhelms the senses.
Our guide shares that the very few houses spotted along the natural park route still stand because their right to stay was respected. They were constructed before the area gained protected status.
Lunch Stop in Peulla: The next stop is Peulla, where we pause for lunch (not included in the ticket). However, Hotel Natura offers a menu for around 22,000 pesos, or you can grab a meal at the adjacent tapas bar, which serves delicious potatoes with ceviche—a curious combination for about €15.
Into the Enchanted Forest: We then continue by bus to Lake Frías, about an hour away. We traverse a forested region classified as one of the largest and ecologically most intact forests on Earth. In 2006, Chile and Argentina jointly created the Binational Reserve, establishing a protected area covering 4.5 million hectares.
The forest is absolutely mesmerizing, with trees over 500 years old and meters in diameter. Among them are Andean araucarias, Andean alerce, cypress of the Andes, coihue, lenga, arrayan, pitra, and rauli. It’s still being verified, but this forest may house the Earth’s oldest tree, estimated to be around 5,000 years old.
At some point, we cross the border, but it seems almost inconsequential because the forest’s grandeur remains.
Lake Frías and Lake Nahuel Huapi: We continue the journey with a catamaran ride on Lake Frías for about half an hour. Then, it’s back on a bus to Puerto Blest, followed by a 1.5-hour navigation on Lake Nahuel Huapi. Once again, the landscapes resemble scenes from a movie.
Final Leg to Bariloche: From there, we embark on a one-hour bus ride to Bariloche, or however long it takes depending on traffic. The trip is made all the more enjoyable with the guides’ magnificent explanations about the surroundings, landscapes, volcanoes (did you know Chile has the world’s second-highest number of volcanoes, with around 2,000, of which 53 are currently active?), and the flora and fauna we encounter.
In Conclusion: The entire experience is as intense as it sounds. Modes of transportation change, and we sometimes cross paths with other groups also traveling by bus. Your luggage is seamlessly moved from one conveyance to the next.
It’s essential to pay close attention to the guides’ instructions, but the investment of time and resources is INCREDIBLY REWARDING.
The landscapes leave you utterly speechless…
