Planning a trip to the remote corners of the world can be an exhilarating yet daunting task. The Patagonia region, sprawling across two countries, with areas of limited communication and challenging access, can be especially perplexing to navigate. It’s a place where conflict and beauty often collide, making every decision a critical one.
Navigating the Patagonian Puzzle: My quest to organize a journey to this part of the world led me down a rabbit hole of research and complexities. Patagonia is vast, shared by both Chile and Argentina, and it’s an area with limited connectivity, tricky access points, and even pockets of dispute. I scoured blogs, tourism websites, tour operators, and local agencies, trying to estimate the ideal length of stay, must-see attractions, transportation logistics, and reservations (because everyone insists they’re a must).
One name that consistently popped up in my research was Calafate, and for good reason.
Why Calafate? Calafate captured my attention because of its easy access (just a 1.5-hour drive on a good road) to one of the largest glaciers in Patagonia, Perito Moreno. This colossal ice mass also represents the world’s third-largest freshwater reserve, following only the Amazon and Greenland.
Perito Moreno, named after a 19th-century explorer who surveyed the region as a “perito” (expert) and laid the groundwork for Argentina’s national parks, is what’s known as a stable glacier. This means its annual growth and movement correspond precisely to the amount of ice melting. You can find fascinating technical information about glaciers online, but here are my impressions.
A Day in the World of Ice: Visiting Perito Moreno is an absolute must. Dedicate a full day to the realm of ice. I chose to explore the glacier with Ryan Travel, and it was both well-organized and enjoyable. However, what I didn’t know beforehand is that you can visit the glacier independently (purchase a regular bus ticket at the bus station for 2,000 pesos). All passengers are conveniently picked up from their individual accommodations, creating a mini Calafate tour experience.
The entrance fee to the park is 4,000 pesos. Upon reaching the final stop, there’s a spacious cafeteria offering delectable snacks, like a Milanese-style breaded steak, ham, and cheese sandwich (heated for 1,600 pesos). From there, you embark on the walkways. There are three routes with lookout points, and they can be comfortably covered in 1.5 to 2 hours. I observed many people savoring their sandwiches while calmly gazing at the glacier. You can also take a boat ride on the northern side, which is the more picturesque route. To reach the boarding point, simply take a bus in front of the cafeteria or walk from one of the walkways. The boat trip lasts an hour and costs 6,000 pesos (tickets available on-site). The experience is truly unique. Alternatively, you can opt for a canoe trip, but advance booking is required. During the austral summer, the sun warms the glacier wall, making it possible, even probable, to witness ice calving around noon. The initial soft rumble gradually grows louder, signaling an impending icefall – a magnificent spectacle.
Calafate’s Unmissable Attractions: During your visit to Calafate, another must-see attraction is the Glaciarium museum, located about 5 kilometers from the city. The entrance fee is 2,200 pesos, and guided tours are available for free. The museum offers a café, lockers, a shop, and a shuttle service departing every hour from the city. A visit and guided tour provide valuable insights into the world of glaciers and are absolutely recommended.
A Perfect Ending to the Day: To conclude your day of exploration, “La Zorra” offers a wide variety of craft beers, and their portions are quite generous, perfect for sharing.
Beauty Beyond the Surface: Lastly, I had heard some say that Calafate isn’t particularly attractive. However, I believe this isn’t entirely fair. I personally enjoyed the main street with its artisan shops, markets, and diverse selection of restaurants and bars. As you venture into the nearby streets, you’ll find charming houses. True, if you move further from the center, you might encounter houses under construction or in a state of partial completion, but they’re a work in progress. There’s also a Western Union office for those interested in exchanging currency via the “blue” market, as discussed in my Ushuaia article.
Warm Hearts Amidst the Tourist Stream: Despite the influx of tourists, the people I interacted with were exceptionally friendly. Apart from visiting the glacier, you can partake in horseback riding or embark on a 7-hour boat journey to the Upsala Glacier, adding even more adventure to your trip.
Stay tuned for more travel tales from my Patagonian expedition!
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