Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego is often referred to as the “End of the World.” Founded in 1884 and located 1,100 kilometers from Antarctica, this charming city has a rich history and a unique position on the map. In a nod to Australia’s colonization, Ushuaia was initially a destination for criminals, and its prison, which operated from 1896 to 1947, played a significant role in the city’s development and history. The city’s naval base also played a crucial role during the Falklands War in 1982.
During my visit, what struck me most was the sense of security and tranquility, as well as the warmth of the people I encountered. While it’s undoubtedly a tourist destination with a bustling main street filled with shops and charming establishments, it hasn’t succumbed to overcrowding. The tourist office staff are exceptionally friendly, and you can even receive a certificate of having been to the “End of the World” and stamp your passport for free there.
Exploring Ushuaia: A City of Adventure: From Ushuaia, you can embark on various excursions to explore glaciers and remote landscapes. I took my time and explored:
- Glacier Martial: You can reach this glacier by bus or taxi (costing less than 10€) and trek it on your own, which takes about 4-5 hours. Be prepared for steep sections with an elevation gain of over 500 meters. At the base of the glacier, there’s a well-known and delightful café called “La casa del té” (The Tea House), and next to it, you’ll find a bar serving craft beer.
- Tierra del Fuego National Park and the End of the World Train: This excursion lasts around 5 hours with stops. The End of the World Train is a highlight, offering a comfortable way to learn about Ushuaia’s history while observing beautiful landscapes from the train’s windows. The park visit consists of several stops at viewpoints for photo opportunities, with guides explaining the flora and fauna, along with short walks.
- Visit to Playa Larga: You can reach this beach by taxi, costing around 5-6€. It’s a lovely walk along the beach, where you can observe local flora and fauna and enjoy a fantastic view of the city.
- Boat Trip on the Beagle Channel: This is a “must-do” activity in Ushuaia. There are options for catamarans carrying 85-150 passengers and three companies offering smaller vessels with 12-25 passengers. The route and prices are similar, so it’s a matter of preference and availability. I chose a small boat trip at sunset, and luck was on my side – there were only three passengers on board. We got up close to sea lions, gray cormorants, and even spotted the Antarctic gull. The small group allowed us to fully appreciate the vastness of the surroundings, the distances, and the isolation of the region, giving us a glimpse of how the first explorers might have felt.
Additionally, you have the option to take a helicopter or small plane flight over the Beagle Channel. The helicopter can be quite noisy, but the Aeroclub offers plane flights starting at 120€ for 30 minutes.
Local Economy and Challenges: Tourism is a significant source of income for Ushuaia, alongside scientific research stations, electronic component manufacturing, fishing, and the military. The city currently has around 100,000 residents and ambitions for further growth. Jobs are plentiful. However, there’s a pressing issue – the city’s tourism accommodations have expanded rapidly, making it challenging for workers from other regions to find rentals. Many are forced to leave. While construction is underway, it isn’t keeping pace with the growing demand.
This is where I began to notice the city’s old houses, which will soon make way for various hotels. These old houses bear witness to the challenging life of the people of Ushuaia. In the 1960s, the city had around 20,000 residents. Winters were harsher than they are now, there was no urban planning, and few streets existed. Alpine-style houses were constructed on sleds so they could be moved to other neighborhoods if water or electricity were installed there. They were even built with tin cans and pipe parts, known as “media cañada,” and very few remain today. In recent times, more attractive economic conditions were offered to attract workers. Additionally, due to its “inhospitable zone” status, people can retire here with only 50 years of age or 25 years of work in the area.
In Conclusion: In summary, Ushuaia is an intriguing, tranquil, and safe city that you should visit sooner rather than later.
Lessons Learned: I discovered the convenience of Western Union for payments in Argentina. With the high inflation rate and two exchange rates (official and “blue”), the simplest way to obtain Argentine pesos at the “blue” rate and make cash payments (as card payments automatically use the official rate) is through Western Union. You can download the app (or use the website) and make a transfer to yourself while in Argentina. Then, you need to visit a Western Union office (be prepared to wait in line!) to collect the cash. My recommendation: download the app and activate your WU account before your trip, as it can take up to 48 hours to become effective.
What I Didn’t Learn: I still haven’t mastered the art of planning everything well in advance. I didn’t buy the ticket to my next destination in time (about 5 days), and as a result, I had to stay an extra day in Ushuaia and rearrange my plans for the following days.
